The storied Daniel Roth brand continues its renaissance with the introduction of the Tourbillon Rose Gold, a horological masterpiece that pays homage to the brand’s rich heritage while embracing modern refinement.
Following the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold released last year, this new iteration showcases the iconic tourbillon in a sumptuous 5N rose gold case, a signature double-ellipse design created by Daniel Roth himself in 1988. The watch features a mesmerizing guilloche en ligne dial, painstakingly crafted in collaboration with the renowned engine-turning atelier of Kari Voutilainen using a manually-operated straight-line engine. Also crafted from 5N rose gold, the timepiece assumes a harmonious “pink on pink” aesthetic that has long captivated watch enthusiasts.
The Tourbillon Rose Gold boasts impressive technical specifications that match its aesthetic appeal. Housed in an 18K 5N rose gold case measuring 38.6 x 35.5mm with a thickness of 9.2mm, the watch features a flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The DR001 calibre, merely 4.6mm thick, comprises 206 components and 19 jewels. It offers a generous 80-hour power reserve and operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). The timepiece is completed with a brown calfskin leather strap, secured by an 18K 5N rose gold tang-type buckle, and weighs approximately 77.5 grams.
“Rose gold is a rich, vivid, and striking precious metal that is modern in appearance yet widely used in classical watchmaking,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of Daniel Roth. “It is a perfect evolution from the vintage feel of the yellow gold used for the Tourbillon Souscription.”
At the heart of this timepiece beats the DR001 calibre, a movement developed entirely by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Unlike its predecessor, the Tourbillon Rose Gold features a sapphire caseback, allowing connoisseurs to admire the movement’s exquisite finishing and traditional construction. Shaped by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the movement pays homage to traditional Swiss watchmaking in both form and finish.
The watch’s double-ellipse case, a Daniel Roth signature since 1988, has been subtly refined for this revival. While maintaining the essence of the original C187 design, the case proportions have been optimized to accommodate the slim DR001 calibre, resulting in a more balanced profile. The wheel driving the tourbillon is held in place by a curved bridge of black-polished steel, while its pivot jewel sits in a gold chaton, one of three in the movement. Framed by the fan-shaped tri-sectioned seconds, the tourbillon at six o’clock is a masterclass in traditional, haute horlogerie decoration. Both the tourbillon bridge and carriage are in steel that’s been polished by hand to a mirror finish.
Devotees of haute horlogerie will appreciate the meticulous attention to detail evident in every aspect of the watch. The dial, produced in collaboration with renowned engine-turning specialist Kari Voutilainen, features hand-engraved vertical lines that echo the original C187. This linear guilloche, chosen by Daniel Roth as a trademark of his brand shortly after its founding, has become synonymous with Daniel Roth timepieces. The movement bridges boast Côtes de Genève striping aligned vertically to mirror the dial’s guilloche, while the tourbillon bridge and carriage showcase mirror-polished steel surfaces.”
As a continuation of the Daniel Roth legacy, each Tourbillon Rose Gold will be individually numbered on the dial, starting from “21” to follow the Tourbillon Souscription’s numbering. Production will be limited to no more than 50 pieces annually, a constraint imposed by the high level of artisanal craftsmanship required for each timepiece.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold represents a pinnacle of watchmaking artistry, blending traditional techniques with contemporary elegance. It stands as a testament to the brand’s enduring commitment to horological excellence and serves as a fitting tribute to Daniel Roth’s visionary approach to fine watchmaking. The Tourbillon Rose Gold continues the legacy of Daniel Roth, a name often mentioned alongside great independent watchmakers like George Daniels, F.P. Journe, and Philippe Dufour. Roth’s influence on modern haute horlogerie, from his work reviving Breguet to his own eponymous brand, has been profound and enduring.